I like to document my goals to keep me moving forward and focused.
In 2018 I am doing another course with Susan Khalje to work on couture techniques and generally continuing to improve technically.
I want to make a jacket to learn soft tailoring, collars and roll lines, bound botton holes etc.
I had bought a beautiful boucle, and aimed to use marfy 3022, but after making it in a wool crepe, the button holes and jetted pocjkets just arent realistically going to work with boucle. I did think about using the style arc Janet jacket, but it lacks the jetted pockets, buttonhole, roll line/collar etc. So I’ve moved to plan B, but may well move on the C before she gets to Perth in March.
I did make marfy 3022 in preparation, as I desperately needed a black jacket ( that was before I kon maried my wardrobe), and Im not sure I love the jacket, so thinking of usibg a burda style blazer at present.
So this year, I’d like to make a jacket in the Khalje class, a boucle jacket, finish last years jacket, and a Alabama Chanin jacket.
I also want to finish my brooklyn tweed agnes knitting, make a pair of shoes, work on tousers for work, and a pretty dress!
The dresses never seem to get made!
Im going to write aims evey season and reflect back on them.
Im goign to have more out than in fabric.
Im going on a RTW diet, as I should be able to make anythign I need.
I thought at the time my #2017makenine were well thought out, but in hindsight, obviously not!
This year my goals were:
My make 9 included a Stylearc jacket, with simple lines. I didn’t make it, however I did make the Susan Khaljie little French Jacket, using her online class, which I think amalgamates my wish for a jacket with my goal of new techniques, finish and coutoure sewing.
So I’m allowing myself a tick.
I specifically didn’t have a pattern in mind with regards to bathers, and as the year progressed, I reflected on what I needed rather than what pattern I could find, so I settled on a combination of Jalie short shorts and tank, along with the fehr trade surf to summit top. I made two pairs, so TICK!
I planned the Grainline Maritime. I made a couple of these, and a couple of the Tessuti patterns. I made enough pairs in a row to last me a few years. TICK, TICK, TICK. Done
I had planned the Alexandria peg trousers, Tessuti linen pants and some jeans.
I made a few pairs of the Alexandria peg trousers, which get regular wear, summer, winter, work etc. At the 11th hour, closet Case Patterns released Sasha, and we became firm friends. I never made the jeans, as I didn’t have a need, and was I think they were on the list more because it was technique I wanted to master. I feel though, that after sewing Sasha, I can do jeans, and they’ll only appear next year if I really need some new ones.
So, two ticks, one cross.
Shirt for my husband:
Didn’t happen, he doesn’t remember I owe him.
Shirt for me:
I have some stashed fabric for a couple of Grainline Archers. It remains in the stash. Maybe net year…
This I made, with Susan Khaljie’s help. I don’t wear it enough, but it’s a definite TICK.
So my mark for 2017, 66% No improvement on last year.
However my more generic goals were to stash less, focus on finish and couture sewing
I have a fabric in:fabric out ratio of 1:1 ( if I include a quilt top/back which hasn’t been quilted yet). Given my aim was more in than out, this is a minor fail, but I think I’ve done much better at buying more utilitarian and neutral fabrics in my colour palate though.
I did finish a couture course, the online lace skirt course, the online little French jacket course. I think my skills have improve significantly, and I am much ore confident with the fitting process, and slowing down and creating better quality, better finished garments.
I haven’t made any pyjamas, but I might slip some in before the year is over!.
So step one in my pants making journey. In this case I wish there wasnt a journey, rather just a destination (finished fitting pants).
I decided to start with the Sasha, because I love stretchy pants, and I figured stretch is a little forgiving, and I hadn’t yet put away my newly purchased Closet Case Patterns pattern.
I made a muslin of a scant remant from deep in the stash. Tessuti or Potters?
I measure between the 8 and 10, but don’t want really tight pants work, and my fabric had a scant 20% stretch. Given the pattern is drafted for 20% stretch, I sized up.
They fit alright, well enough for me to carry on. But when I checked Heathers blog, she had a fitting e-book I could download, with pictures of the most common fitting problems. what harm could that do? According to Heather, I have a low seat, full thighs, and gapping waistband.
I made her suggested changes, by squaring the crotch, and easing the back inner thigh 0.5cm. This resulted in less wrinkle s under the butt but too much fabric pooling at the inner thighs, so I decided to pretend my thighs are perfect, and just adjust my low seat and gaping waist.
There was a lot of talk on instagram about predicted “bagging out” of sateen. I ignored it and cut my gorgeous floral cotton elastane from Tessuti, because that’s how I roll. I have some floral stretch pants from Banana Republic that I wore to death, and got heaps of comments on. On rereflection they’re only 18 months old, but looking well worn, and ready to be retired. Should pants last longer than that? Most of my me made clothes do.
I followed Heathers instructions (because I wasnt feeling myself), and they were an easy sew.
I was instructed via instragram to narrow the legs, and crop. Ai Ai captains.
I predict Sasha and I will become firm friends, and the race is on to find the prefect fabric that wont bag. Ill let you know when I find it because there will be more.
Sasha is drafted using the Ginger jeans block, so I am now thinking I might have to meet Ginger or Morgan next winter.
I always have so many ideas floating round in my head; few seem to be realised. I think this contributes to stashing as I get another idea which jumps to the front of the queue.
So I thought I’d make my plans more concrete to aid direction and minimise diversion. Hopefully this will maintain direction and help me stash less.
As you all know, I live under a hole in the ozone layer. Even though it is smaller than it has been since 1988, I’m going to use this as the reason I need swimwear with appropriate body coverage. Any other discussing may get controversial, and having a young daughther I am of body-hating vernacular. Additionally swimwear for me is a functional item of clothing, a string bikini isn’t gonna hold up to Perths dumping waves. (Really though, just wear what makes you comfortable, and I am comfortable well covered)
So I’m thinking hotpants, sportsbra and cycling vest all in swimwear lycra.
I’d love two complete sets.
I also recently bought this Jalie from seamstress fabrics which will be for less active occasions.
2. Work pants.
I desperately need some work pants. But I need to get over my lack of enthusiams for fitting.
The candidates are:
1. Closet Case Patterns Sasha trousers. 2. vogue something or other…. 3. Papercut Patterns Nyago, 4. Style Arc Willow pants. ( can you tell how keen I am?)
Is anything less fun to sew? I am in desperate need though. I have a heap of liberty lawn loitering, and I am trying to instigae a zero tolerance policy.
These are the contenders.
2 shorts, 2 longs and some white Grainline Larks, if I don’t have enough to make a Ogden.
4. A pretty dress.
I have some lovely linen from the stitch 56 closing sale and some ladder lace. I’m thnking a Tessuti Ruby with the lace insert in some sort of symmetrical pattern.
I have some other designer linen, and some designer silk. I’m thinking DKNY vouge (which I think now is OOP) and Tessuti patterns Lois.
And thats it, I dont have anything else stashed. If one of these can be sewn, Ill be delighted.
5. Susan Khalje.
I have to muslin a jacket before March. Im making marfy 3022 in Mednel Goldberg boucle. ( the current plan)
6. Selfless sewing
I owe my husband a button up shirt from last Christmas. But he doesn’t remember, so I might wipe that slate clean.
I owe a good friend a pair of Alexandria peg trousers for her June birthday. so really I should do this.
I’d love to see Princess Muddypuddles a dress for Christmas, but she’ll just get it muddy. So that’s last on the list.
1) When I was a kid we lived directly under a hole in the ozone layer. This was the reason we had to wear sunburn cream. Also because we only have 3 layers of skin and I had been burnt and peeled twice. The point is: universally kids hate sunburn cream.
2) The troll can’t get RTW rashies over his huge noggin.
So come autumn I whip up a few pairs of leggings and rashies.
I bought some spoonflower active wear fabric in one of their sales last year. The fabric isn’t cheap and postage crippling. I’ve only ever used fabric from textile traders (is thin and fades) thefabricfairy(thin) and tessuti (thin). This stuff was thick and quality so I’m looking forward to see how it copes with the Australian sun and chlorine. I need about 1.5 metres for a set.
My go to pattern is the peekaboo patterns hangten rash vest.
The Troll (age 6) got a size 7. Largely ‘cos I hoped it would fit them both and I wouldn’t have to cut and paste two pdf patterns. I added a zip to allow for excess noggin. Short open end zips are hard to come by. The centre front is 43cm.
On his second one I tried to cut a long zip short. This was a minor disaster. Sewing machines and overlockers don’t cope with the massive plastic teeth of this sort of zip. It looks messy but is surviving. If a zip the right size happens into my lap, I remain unlikely to unpick this and replace.
Princess Muddypuddles (age 8) tried on The Troll’s and thought the rashie was a bit tight. So I just added 2cm to the center front and back.
I’ve previously used the peekaboo pattern leggings. I’ve never been happy with the fit around the crotch so when Meg released the MN mini virginias a few years ago I switched. they work well for him and her. They both got size 8/9. Australian patterns seem smaller. I used quite thick elastic, ‘cos I had some, but this meant I should have added a waist band, the rise is a little short as is.
I also made a pair for her cousin because they love playing twins and they are are the same size so it’s easy to whip up another pair.
Unfortunately they still need sunburn cream on their faces so not all problems are solved.
I’ve been hanging out a bit in Melbourne lately. Last weekend, I met up with some sewing friends, including @talliswoman and hit the House of Dior exhibit at the NGV.
Apart from just beholding pure beauty, I took a lot from this exhibition
1. Dior sewists know their bound button holes, and hand rolled hems
2. Muslins can be beautiful
3. Dior was awesome at sculptural structure
4. A tuck here, or a pleat there can make lovely details
5. More details.
The texture on the dress below is created by thousands of tiny silk flowers sewn onto the fabric.
The texture is created from tiny silk flowers sewn on the fabric
7. Dior didn’t do shoes. Which explains why they had white court shoes on, when I KNOW no one wearing Dior, EVEN if they were an eighties bridesmaid would have stooped to that!
He got someone else to do them, but they did display some pretty rad examples in a case at the end of the show.
8. I don’t know if Dior did hats, so I’m not sure why the occasional model had cellophane wrapped their head. Was that how they looked on the catwalk? maybe, because those with cellophane masks also generally had awesome shoes on.
9. Drape is as important as structure.
10. Sometimes Dior wasn’t perfect
We shouldn’t be so hard on ourselves
I was a little disappointed the models didn’t fit the dresses properly. I’m sure they would have fit the real person, that is the point of couture.
But bar far the biggest disappointment was not being able to touch and examine the clothes. Never gonna happen….
I had a ball, and am feeling inspired.
On the plane on the way home, I watched Dior and I, more serendipity, but that movie’s old news.
Work this week required me to be in Sydney on Friday, then Melbourne Monday Tuesday, so decided to that rather than spend 10 hours of my weekend on a plane, I’d hang around in Melbourne. I saw a rather cheeky musical, and managed to snare a spot in the Handmakers Factory Natural Dyeing workshop. I was hoping to do their Indigo shibouri workshop on the Saturday as well, but it was sold out, so I took a rather amusing day trip to the legendary Jimmy Buttons in Fitzroy ( and maybe The Fabric Store) ( and maybe Tessuti aswell).
Jimmy, and the stuff he made me buy to hoard
Nichola, who runs the class is well known to me, as I have been stalking her on the internet for years. I was so pleased at the serendipity that allowed me to get to her class.
The rather unexpected road closures due to the Melbourne marathon meant I was a little late, I then spent the rest of the day getting to know the other 5 students, and what they would use their new skills for. One lady was an artist, who worked in a Reggio Emilio school, my kids went to a Reggio Emilio school in their early years, and I could see exactly how the children would engage in this process over a year! From sewing the seeds themselves, and nurturing a plant, to picking the flowers, making the dye, and painting a picture of the growing flower, describing the process as they go, and documenting under their finished painting. This made my heart ache, as I remembered my children’s beautiful years in that environment. Last weekend my children and I planted sunflowers in the garden in anticipation of me doing this class, as I thought we could use the flowers to dye some stuff. So it seems I learned some stuff from my children’s kindy teachers!
One young Uni student wanted to create beautiful scarves and pieces of wearable art. Another young Doctor sought second hand clothes from Op shops, and then upcycled them. Another two were artists who wanted to use the skills to dye paper to use in printmaking.
Me, well I just like playing and learning. I can see myself overdying some fabrics in my stash that I don’t love, and buying white/natural silk and linen in bulk from now on, and dyeing as I want to make something.
Nichola started by explaining a bit about the principles of natural dyeing. Natural fabrics work best with this sort of dyeing. Cellulose fibres, such as cotton, linen don’t pick up the colour that well, so they are dipped in protein, protein fibres such as wool and silk are dipped in alum sulphate and cream of tartare to assist with their dye uptake.
Nichola collects natural products all year and then finds that either freezing or drying them, before using accentuates the colours. we made dyes using avocado pits and skins, sourgrass, eucalyptus, purple cabbage, red onion skins, carrot tops and tumeric.
Ee then dipped each piece of material into a modifier to see what would happen to the dye. We used Copper, iron, Citric acid and soda ash. It’s like magic, how the colour modifies. To set the colour, the material should then be soaked in salt and vinegar. We then overdyed each piece with indigo.
The possibilities are endless, as you could dye, then overdye and modify etc….
I spend 5 hours with Nichola, took home 210 fabric samples, learned heaps, and took a little inspiration from each student. Lovely way to spend a day.
When Closet Case Patterns released the Kalle dress pattern, it was mid winter in Perth; but it was love at first sight. I love wearing linen sacks in our horrendous summers, so I pre-ordered it from Nat at Sew for life, but it sat whilst I frolicked, sewing machine-less on Rottnest Island.
So after months of hand sewing, and slow sewing, on my gorgeous island, I returned home to my sewing machine and pulled out Kalle.
I used some stash spotlight linen that I didn’t love for the first draft. Not much to say, I cut a size 8, which I thought were my measurements. I never read instructions, so put the placket on back to front, but it was an easy fix. The instructions are actually very clear. I made the dress version, but cut the front hem using the back piece so the hem isn’t high-low. The dress came together easily, and I rejoiced at the marvel of a 3 hour sew.
The dress is beautifully drafted and easy sew, but roomy; I decided to gift it to my mother, and size down in some fab linen gifted to me by my siblings for my birthday.
Then I posted the image on IG……
At which stage, I noticed my error.
Shhh, Don’t tell my Mum she loves it!
On to the gifted fabric. I bought this gorgeous green linen from Tessuti with a birthday gift voucher from my siblings with Kalle in mind. I used floral bias binding on the hem because the pieces of leftover linen were too small to make any reasonable lengths of bias binding. I added pockets, and I didn’t even need a reason.
Obviously I paid careful attention to print placement on this version.
The Chanel jacket is of course famous and timeless
Apparently the term “Chanel jacket” is copyrighted, and we should refer to anything I am ever likely to own as neither a chanel jacket, nor a Chanel for now jacket, but a little French jacket (LFJ) instead.
I have heaps of short, collarless jacket patterns in my stash, patterns in this style, but have never sewn any. However after attending Susan Khaljes cotoure class, and setting my goals for this year (#slowsewing)! I decided I’d go the whole hog, buy Susan’s online course and actually make a little french jacket.
The LFJ is in theory supposed to be more like a cardigan ( known as a cardi in Australia) and involves over 100 hours of labour to create. There is mich more information on the blogs of Melanie, Inna and Leisa .
Because I’ve never seen one of the stash patterns, I wasn’t sure how or if I’d wear it, so decided to start with utilitarian black, as its much less likely to be conspicuous in my wardrobe. I bought some boucle at stitches to style, whilst in th he company of enablers in Feb 2017. I went with a beautiful cornflower blue silk to line, which picks up some subtle blueish threads in the boucle. Susan thought it was a little thin, and needed some batiste underlay.
I made two muslins in May. Using Susans jacket pattern,the main issue I had was to take some length out of the back at the waist. The second muslin was just right.
The pattern has lovely 3 piece sleeves, and was drafted by Susan and a French pattern maker. Remember ther are no seam allowances, but it is true to meausurements.
Fast foward to late July, and I started the tedious, (but in reality) really fun process of tracing the underlay allowed me to trace onto the batiste, thread tracing, then quilting the lining to the boucle. Normally, you would cut around the muslin pieces and thread trace the seam lines directly to the boucle, but as my boucle was a little see-through, Susan’s rule is that it needs some underlining for stability. This allows me to skip the step of adding silk organza through the front shoulder regions for stability. The quilting needs to occur ON GRAIN, leaving once inch from the seam lines, except at the bottom, where you leave two inches.
Once all that work is done, you try it on again, and have to decide whether it fits. There are 8 longitudinal seams with their enormous seam allowances, in boucle, underlinig and silk, AND the shoulder seams. So I pined it on along the shoulders, and the cente front, trying to ignore the seam bulk, and examined myself in the mirror, (sans fliptop head) to examine the fit from all angles. At this stage, you need to imagine if it fits ( despite being essentially a “wooly mamoth” (to quote Susan)) or if you need to unpick seams, rebaste and resew. You can imaging the temptation…
Susan says that most often she finds the girls are being a bit restricted, which is “not so pretty”, and indeed, I decided to unpick the princess seam for the biggest adjustment, adding about 1/2 inch at the fullest part of the princess seam, and add a little ( about 1/4 inch) to the side seams to allow a bit of ease.
At this stage, I had come so far, with so far to go, and was rapidly falling out of love. I know by now this is a routine part of the process, and was confident, my love affair would be rekindled.
Pushing on, I tamed the beast, sewed he shoulder seams, and tried it on.
I was suprised to discover the shoulder seams so far forwards. 12 months ago, I would have left it alone, but unpicking a seam is no big deal on this ride. So the seams were moved backwards half an inch.
Susan talks a lot about the virtue of the thread tracing and large seam allowances which allow you to modify for fit as you sew. The fit of this garment is so hard to judge because of these very seam allowances: a build in contingency is definitely needed.
Then the shoulders were hand sewn in using Susans tutorial, which was a little complicated, but no drama at all. However, then trying to tame the lining on the inside, well that was more difficult.
After all this, all that is needed id to apply the trim, then sewn closed the lining.
I struggled with trim trying to find a trim that I could live with, so eventually decided to go without, and add later if I found something. As the jacket is unstructured, it needs something to stablise the edges, I learned this on Mels blog.
The home straight was fairly straight forwards, adding the closures (add wax) fell stitching the lining, and the chain (add wax) ,but I found myself a little sad as I came to the end.
I’m off the melbourne in a few weeks, so I’ll pop into Jimmy’s buttons to see if I can find the icing for my cake.
Notes To self:
add 1/2 inch at the arms side of the princess seam
take 1cm off the neck at the back
add 1/2 inch ease to the side seams at the hips ( could have got away without this)